• The border, El Salvador
• Hours travelled: 6 hours
• Distance travelled: 213.2km
• Transport: buses, mototaxis + a brief walk into Salvador
• Rating: toilets were alright
11 hours of buses. A breakdown. One attempt at a border crossing. A whole lot of bad luck.
The journey for Giselle + I started with I waking at 4:30 from a bad dream (so omninous). We got our food bits together (consisting of: guavabya, beetroot, banana pancakes, a fruit salad + some plantain) + managed to make it to the busstop for just before 6. Here we waited in the fresh morning air till 6:30 when a bus to Santa Rosa passed. This is where the bad luck really begins for me. There wasn’t much space on the bus so we were forced to sit on the last row. What I remember being a huge treat for those in year 11 turned into what can only be described as a seriously uncomfortable journey. Firstly, the skyline had broken meaning blasts of chilly air were continually slapping us in our faces. Next, I was situated next to a rather large Honduran man. At first when he started chatting to me I thought nothing of it, except that it was good spanish practice. Why was I here, for how long, etc… until he turned to me, looked me dead in the eye + asked if I had a boyfriend. End of that friendship. As more people crammed on the bus we ran into another issue. Giselle felt uncomfortable being in the middle seat so had moved to one side. As 2 Hondurans made their way to the back I could anticipate one of them sitting in this now vacant seat. As it turns out, both of them did. Wonderful. So now I had a creep Honduran on my right, 2 squished on the left (+ one of these practically half in my lap) + Giselle too far away to communicate with. I closed my eyes + imagines I was anywhere but surrounded by men. After these two got off the journey was much more pleasant, especially because at a later stop even more people disembarked meaning we could find a two seater to ourselves. I read the incredible book Rachel lent us + then we were there, in Santa Rosa.
^The catrachas with their residencies
First things first: a free bathroom. My advice is seriously to always find a Texaco. Not only are the toilets normally pretty decent but there’s often free WiFi too (not that we took advantage of it this time). We headed down the streets with our bags to the holy Texaco where we almost bought snacks then saw everything was double the price. 4 Oreos for 10L? No way. It was back to the bus station for us where we found some bags of water then suddenly got a call and the girls had arrived. We had to find a bus for the border but as it was leaving almost straight away there was no time for food. I shared what little was left of my banana pancakes + we had a 2 1/2 hour ride through the Honduran mountains. It certainly was beautiful + we chatted lots but something about the travel made my ears blocked + they proceeded to be this way for almost a good hour afterwards. As soon as we got to Santa Rosa we were put in a taxi + taken to the border, which is where the troubles really began. Giselle, Megan + I were easily stamped through (thanks to our residency) + stood excitedly at the side. However, as soon as Rachel called Giselle over to speak to her woman, I knew we had a problem. The short story is Rachel had two extensions in her passport + Salvador were claiming they could only accept one. The Hondurans directed us to the Salvadorian security man who, in turn, directed us to management, so off we went across the border, 3 of us legally. The men asking if we wanted to change lemp to dollars were constantly asking so I replied “ahora no” so one replied “y despues?” “Yah; es posible” – but what he didn’t realise is there would never be a despues…. We’d been told to ask for the management who took us off into a side room for an even longer chat. As I’d rung Jake at the 1st sight of trouble (huge thanks to him!) who gave us the lawyers number we had her on the phone. Although the Salvadorian claimed he couldn’t speak with her directly they could both hear each other. When she started accusing him of being wrong he would raise his voice so she could hear his side of the argument. We were told we should go to Belize or Costa Rica then come back + try again… sure… At this point Megan + I were at the side, totally done, + to be honest I was just finding it funny. My sympathy lies with that man because realistically it was completely a problem on the Honduran side of things. Eventually we could fight it no longer, the extent of our Salvador adventure was going to be the toilets in the emigration office.
These actually were a bit of an adventure though because they were so freakin’ small our heads + shoulders popped out of them! Of course, there were no flushers, water nor soap but an 8L well spent because it was hilarious.
Giselle had jokingly said in front of the man “we could illegally try to cross” which could be part of the reason for why we were escorted out of the border. Once safely back in Honduras we had to be stamped back in, for spending around 1 1/2 hours on the other side. We attempted one last time to sort out Rachel’s but the Hondurans were adement they wouldn’t stamp her passport. With slightly heavy hearts we walked to get a bus back to the town.
At this stage I was still feeling pretty positive: sure, we couldn’t get into Salvador, but we were all together + we’d still have fun. Little did I know what was coming…
The plan was to try to get back to Yam but once we thought about the 6 hour travel time we realised it was impossible. I rang our family who confirmed this. So, new plan: try to get to Gracias. This is a cute colonial town + thanks to training + Thanksgiving we know it pretty well so figured it was a safe place to be. Once in Ocotopeque we had 5 minutes before the bus left to grab snacks (at this point we were running on little food) which were: cookies, a bag of water + an ice cream. The appitimay of health. This next bus was no less packed than the rest so Giselle + I suffered with trying to eat our ice creams whilst standing up which involved us falling into each other more than a few times + the nice Honduran we made friends with catching me at least twice. At one point I was trying to hug Giselle went the bus jolted + I ended up sighing “solo necesito un abrazo”. We shared a cookie with this guy which he in turn shared with his mum + had some cute chats. Eventually one seat was free so Giselle was on my lap for a while which the Hondurans found hilarious. Once there was more space at the back she moved to Megan + Rachel leaving me next to a very sweet but slightly creepy man. At one point in the journey his ticket flew out his pocket so I passed it back to him. In return I was handed a letter where even the spanish wasn’t correct listing the days of the week, saying he didn’t speak English + in one line, asking for a kiss. After this whirlwind romance I was pretty ready to be done with the bus, but another stop meant yet more people + more specifically, more men. Cue one drunk man + 2 guys with backpacks who thought the best place to stand would be less than 10cm from my face. Obviously. I ended up nearly on lover boy as I tried to squirm away from the situation which I’m sure he was thrilled about. The money collector told them to be careful of me which saw one move away, + I guess one arse is better than two. Then, as a distraction I managed to finish my book (number …) but after this it was just my me + my music. At one point I closed my eyes to sleep but was abruptly woken from my daydream by the fact our drunk friend had fallen as we zoomed round a corner + was now on top of me. Thankfully, he was relatively quick to recover though so was I as my eyelids snapped up + I flashed a death stare at him. At this point I was not feeling the love for Honduran men.
Around 5:30 we made it to Santa Rosa where there were no buses bound for La Esperanza, only one last one to Gracias. We climbed aboard this although it ended up being the busiest bus I think I’ve ever seen. We were all on the section next to the driver, the aisle was full to bursting yet still more were coming on. I asked the driver if I could sit upon the front section + he said yes so this ended up in Giselle, a Honduran lady + I staring down the bus. There still wasn’t a lot of room here as my leg was fully over the gear stick + half in the drivers space. Thankfully, he was hilarious + played some really good music so my mood was improved as I jammed along, alone, at the front of a bus, watching the sun setting over the mountains. Of course, this didn’t last too long as when it turned dark the bus broke down. By this point there really weren’t very many people left but I was still sitting at the front (atop my rain jacket as my arse was burning) because we didn’t have too much longer to go. Well, there we were, stuck in the middle of nowhere with a starry sky above us. We were told it would be 10 minutes so Giselle + Rachel ran to find some bags of water. 10 turned into 20 which turned into 30 but still we were stuck. We moved our bags to the front which resulted in a little spill of gasoline as Giselle hadn’t realised our bags were resting on a open barrel of the stuff. Just as I went to ask if there was time to use the bathroom, a replacement bus turned up. Pretty decent for Honduras! Although we weren’t allowed on the 1st they did put us on the 2nd so soon we were speeding off to Gracias.
Another bus, another time being dropped off randomly at the side of the road. Once we found a mototaxi to all squeeze in we headed to the only place we could think of: Guancascos. As we were walking up the steps we were saying “ha, wouldn’t it be funny if they didn’t have any room”… turns they didn’t have any room…
At this point giving up seemed like a good option. Thankfully, the wonderful owner of Guancascos has a soft spot for Project volunteers so she rang another place she knew + seriously helped us out. She even gave us a lift there in the back of her truck. Sometimes after hard days its nice to know there’s goodness left in the world. Eventually we arrived at our current hotel: hot, dejected + completely exhausted. After dumping our bags + making our way to the square for some cheap baleadas, we headed to bed.
At least we’re still smiling!
From a little room in La Ceiba (the adventure continues soon…),
Charlotte