~Amapala~
Thursday we were told that as well as Tuesday we would also have Monday off. Luckily, the power went at 3 which left us madly calling our La Unión girls to see what they were doing before deciding to go to Amapala. After we taught our lesson with the neighbours we were in bed at 8, due to the power still not being back, with alarms set for 5am. I woke up at 4:15 to the realisation there was still no power so Giselle got to enjoy a cold shower + then we spent some time in the neighbours kitchen using their hob because their barrio had power back. Banana pancakes were made for recess + the trip, the last of our things were packed, including damp towels (yay for rainy season) then we got the school bus in.
After a crazy but amazing day covering 2nd Grade which ended with lots of hugs, “I Love You”s and “I will miss you”s as well as a mini party in art, I ran to the bathroom + to get water before Giselle + I hopped onto a bus into town. We sat with our students + had a laugh as they showed us cool tricks they could do: from flicking fingers back to putting legs over heads.
It was rainy in La Esperanza + this continued for the entire trip to Teguc, making the bus extremely slow. After Comayagua there was barely any of us left, so I moved to my own double seat, opposite Giselle, to see if I could try sleep. But, due to the terrible bus music and my impatience to reach our destination, I found myself unable to. I’d left my earphones at school so, when the bus lights came on, my book became my only companion, and when not, I took to blogging or watching the intense lightning and rain outside.
At long last we were at the dodgy terminal with Crazy Carlos there to await us with big hugs and kisses. We were taken to the boys house where we surprised them (Robbie’s face was priceless) and ate a very late but very delicious dinner of pastelitos and strawberry licuados with strawberries I gifted the boys. Dinner entertainment including braiding their hair + trying to make me only speak Spanish.
We attempted to have an early night (which meant 3 hours sleep for me) before waking at 4:30 and stumbling around in the dark, trying to ready ourselves. We filled our water bottles + headed with Robbie in a taxi to a different bus terminal (in Teguc they are spread all over the city) where we were met with some impressive abuse. Before we’d even gathered our stuff they were opening the doors, reaching in, shouting all kinds of stuff and stroking my hair. I was so glad to have the other 2 because I quite frankly had no idea what was going on.
We bid our farewells + got on a small bus to take us out of the city where I again tried but failed to sleep so gave myself up to my book. We did make a quick stop which was a relief to use the bathroom as well as purchase very odd fake cheese ritz. Soon we were dropped at the side of the dusty road and, seeing no bus but a sign pointing to Amapala, decided to walk.
Eventually a truck came (relax parents, the driver looked about 90 so we figured it was safe) + we hopped in the back although he could only take us half the way. The incredible views of mountains + fields flashed by as we munched on banana pancakes then took to walking again when we were left at the side of another road. Luckily the bus came super promptly so we got to ride in a bit more comfort down to the very small town of Amapala.
Isla de Tigra is super close and after arguing with some Hondurans who claimed there was no boat to the pier then walking 5m to the right, where there was a boat for the pier, we were soon on said boat – heading to the pier. Ah, Hondurans!
Our first impressions of Amapala were very positive with its colourful streets, beautiful sign and quiet cobbled roads. Mainly people get around the island in mototaxis (I’ve never seen so many) or on quads with the occasional car.
With no accomodation booked we headed to a hotel we had planned to book when we were originally going to come that was located on a little beach. There was sadly no room at the inn so we were taken to what I can only describe as a gated compound with 2 buildings, the larger of which the night guard slept in. The room we were shown was in the smaller, green building that housed a bed and 2 chairs as well as a whole flock of mosquitos and bugs. There was no running water so we were told we could take bucket showers (+ we all know how much I love them) and refill the large buckets of water by sloshinrg water in from a hole in the ground outside. I think it’s clear we weren’t gonna stay here, but the woman had already left so we used the less than hygienic bathroom facilities and hid the key in a concrete slab.
^ less than impressed faces
The sun burned down on us as we made our slow walk along the road, watching the heat rays fly off it in front of us as cows relaxed by the side.
A mototaxi luckily passed + picked us up so we could head back to the centre + try to find accomodation which he suggested in one very expensive house. So, we headed to the tourist office where the main woman was busy making necklaces out of sea shells + another woman kindly showed us a room above a little green house. David let us in + although I can imagine my family freaking out at the state of it – it was perfect for us!
We dumped our things + took a walk around town to get much needed bags of water when fireworks began to pop and boom, about 10m from the pulpería we were in. These are Giselle’s phobia so after waiting a while we took off running in the opposite direction, which was a blessing as we stumbled across a little comedor.
The porch was the seating area so we relaxed in the hammock whilst they prepared + cooked our carne asada in front of us – which was delcious + served with tajadas + chismol. As we were too tired to even consider moving we stayed in the hammock for an hour after (where they thought we were sleeping), having deep chats.
Once we felt strong enough to move we made it back to our hostel to change into swimming costumes + hit up playa grande. With an ice cream in hand we set off in yet another mototaxi to the large beach; which ended up being rather small. The vibes were mega cute as the tide was out so we were free to walk up and down before leaving our bags with a responsible looking Honduran woman as we splashed in the waves.
Suddenly, I turned to Giselle, complaining that my arm was burning. On further inspection it was clear there was a large red patch with a white like running down it. It meant only one thing: jellyfish. I suffered another sting, as did Giselle, + we soon made a swift exit from the water.
Then it was time to eat oranges, draw in the sand + forget our responsibilities for an afternoon. We ate a dinner of baleadas in hammocks watching the sun set + washed it down with bags of water. As we were both shattered + there was no WiFi on the island we headed to bed super early, with me passing out on my bed as Giselle brushed her teeth, too tired to have my sheet over me – regrettable as I woke up with many mosquito bites! We did have to deal with a mini ant infestation on our beds but hey, what’s a holiday without one?
After a long rest we woke up sweating which meant cold mornings showers (about the only time I enjoy this) before walking into town for more bags of water. These we drank sitting on a bench at the pier, people watching + being watched back by curious Hondurans. Once we bought super healthy snacks of oranges + marias we headed to the first beach of the day.
This beach was deserted. Besides a little wooden comedor on one side with the owners who bid us a good morning; we were the only ones on the beach.
Robbie had bought me a Tigo package with some internet so I could tell my mum we were safe (gracias, bud) + there was so much in the package I managed to videocall my Spanish family from a beach in Honduras – pretty cool. The sun was just waaay too intense, even though it was only 10 in the morning, leading to both of us getting a little red. We paddled without going in the sea for fear of our squishy little friends then decided we had to have some shade. 30 minutes of Amapala sun is more than enough! I read, drank water, ate oranges + watched over the beach as slowly more people came.
As we were about to leave around midday we decided a loo trip wouldn’t be a bad idea so once we asked were given paper + the man pointed out the back. After climbing through barbed aire then walking through a sort of field with long dead grass to an abandoned building we realised that wasn’t the bathroom. The bathroom was gonna be Mother Nature, so we found a tree + each kept watch for the other – woo, partner bonding!
Soon we were safely back in the centre + celebrating with cheesecake sandwich ice creams. All of a sudden a woman walked up to us, but by the time I’d place her it was too late. She was the owner of the terrible first accomodation who we’d left a voicemail for the night before but hadn’t realised. Giselle awkwardly said we’d found some friends that we decided to stay with (our best excuse in the moment) + she said fine; but wouldn’t we like to see her paella? We walked into the square + though it smelt amazing prawns left in the sun sounds like a reciepe for distraer to me so we bought mangos off her friend instead.
Then we got another mototaxi to our hotel where Giselle ran in to get money whilst I practised my spanish with the sweet old man. As he was the 1st Honduran I’d seen with blue eyes he started the conversation on this topic (by the way, it’s because the father of his mother’s grandma had blue eyes). He took us back to playa grande which was a transformed place: the tide was up so high the waves were lapping the chairs of the restaurants + if you wanted to move down the beach you had no choice but to slosh through the sea. We sat to eat our mango but after the waves rose more + touched my backpack we decided to find shade + safely in one of the shacks. I bought more bags of water which we felt justified sitting in the hammocks, which we proceeded to do for 2 hours. At one point a drunk man went over to Giselle so she joined me in my hammock where we were asked how old we were (supposedly I look 26) + said we were Hondurans from Santa Barbara (though they somehow ended up thinking we were from France). As the man began to pack up we headed over the road to use 5L bathrooms with a stench that smashed your nose like a punch. Then there was the search for fish which we eventually found for the reasonable price of 100L for the fish, tajadas + chismol stuff. We ate watching the sunset + I must say it was super good😋
Then there was time to kick off our flip flops for a romantic couples walk along the beach, running through the waves, taking pictures + admiring the pink sky spread above us.
The same mototaxi boy as the day before took us back to our apartment where the lovely David fixed our light that wasn’t functioning + we had another early night (we know how to party!), suffocating from the heat. The small fan we had didn’t provide much comfort + I’d really reccomend investing in AC if you go.
^ partners that burn together, stay together
Monday morning I woke up again dripping in sweat at 5am + made some attempts to get back to sleep in the death chamber that was our bedroom. After another walk into town + drinking a litre of water on a different part of the pier area we managed to find a place with desayuno típico with some dodgy rice but yummy beans, cheese + egg. We had to go into the market to find that comedor + ate with a view of the volcano, not too dissimilar to a hotel I went to in Costa Rica. It was high time to get back to the room so we made our way through the cities avoiding the occasional fireworks packed up our things, said a goodbye to David + admitted defeat. Amapala was much too hot for us.
As we were crawling to the pier to find a boat ready to take us off the island we were pointed to the left where we saw, to our amazement, a boat only filled with white people! We got chatting as they were super friendly + it turns out they taught in the International Teguc school, where one of our teachers use to work – small world after all!! They knew Nottingham uni + wished me luck with law (which I’ll need) + when I asked if they thought Teguc was dangerous they said there were some dodgy parts they’d avoid, then named the street with the bus terminal for La Esperanza. Ah, Teguc, how I love you.
^ stuck on a too hot bus
Two very hot buses later we were back in the comfort + (relative) safety of Teguc, ready to see the boys. The bus ended up not going to the terminal so we were forced to exit on a random road + trust a taxi man to take us to their house which thankfully, he did very safely. Once there Robbie had finished an exam so was able to entertain us whilst Daniel was at uni by letting us use the pila to wash clothes. We all enjoyed a huge pasta dish before a visit to their uni which definitely isn’t as beautiful as Nottingham but I can see the appeal. There were some nice walkways, lots of trees (always a necessity for me) + some huge buildings with murals. As we were walking down the street (embarrassing Robbie by giving each other piggy backs, as if we didn’t already stand out as the only 2 gringas) a guy in a semi bumblebee outfit whacked our heads with his soft hammer. We got pictures with him which meant we had to pay a price as he makes funky bins to encourage people to recycle – much needed here.
Robbie made some excellent baleadas for dinner which we enjoyed watching a movie, before catching some sleep. On the Monday we spent a very chilled day in the house, with Giselle making full use of the oven to make shortbread whilst I made banana pancakes. It was only goodbye for a short while as the boys have a break from uni soon to come home – woo!
We survived another taxi to the bus station where it all went smoothly until I got on the bus + realised I couldn’t find my phone. I sprinted off to shouts of the men saying they were leaving + went to ask the ticket man when I saw the bus pulling out of the terminal so rushed back on, stressing like a chicken in Dom Pollo. Thankfully, Giselle found it in my bag (thanks buddy!!) + we enjoyed a peaceful ride home through the beautiful scenery.
Sadly our time here is swiftly coming to a close, with only 1 and 1/2 months left of school (Happy May!) so I’m extremely thankful we managed to fit in some final partner bonding time with our shared holiday. Lots of love to you, Giselle!💙 also huge thanks to the boys for hosting us on such short notice, you guys rock!!
That’s all from a little blue house in Yamaranguila,
Charlotte
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